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#SuzyPFW Reflections: Miu Miu Walks The Line Between Serious And Frivolous

作者:Suzy Menkes 编辑:张一杰 时间:2018年10月07日
内容来源:manbetx正网   图片来源:VOGUE国际网站:英国

文章导读

No one captures a show moment better than Miuccia Prada, who – if you remove the thigh-length shorts and knee-high socks – reveals fashion’s sober side for next season

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The Spring/Summer 2019 collection by Miu Miu featured some solemn outfits alongside Miuccia Prada's trademark colourful looks

Ik Aidama / InDigital.TV

In the whirl of excitement that fills the packed Paris shows, the real changes in fashion only start to trickle through after the presentations and events take place.

Spring/Summer 2019 is proposing new shapes and a less frenetic pace, with a focus on fabric but with lengthening hemlines seeping into the collections.

The Miu Miu presentation was a powerful example of change. The collection first appeared to be youthful and lightweight with its repeated ruche of material creating a whirl of a bow towards one shoulder. On closer inspection however, there was a contrast to the frou-frou effects with a millennial tinge.

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2019

Monica Feudi / InDigital.TV

Remove the set design of huge, white Ms, Is, and Us towering overhead in the semi-darkness, and the context of the Spring/Summer 2019 show was often sober.

A range of looks from the coquettish to the composed, backstage at Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2019

Sonny Vandevelde / InDigital.TV

Miuccia Prada had balanced “tween-age” looks of revealing bared legs and sexy dresses with solid coats and jackets worn with over-the-knee skirts. It was almost as if the designer were pondering which way fashion should move in relation to length and body cover-ups.

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Although Miu Miu was on the last day of shows over four weeks in four separate cities, the offerings were in no way superfluous – more an affirmation of powerful trends.

The lengthening of skirts to over-the-knee was a major statement, yet a deliberately confusing one, because some of the Miu Miu skirt fabrics were semi-transparent, thus negating the concept of a cover up.

Backstage at Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2019, bare legs with a veil of fabric on the one hand, and knee-length skirts and coats on the other

Sonny Vandevelde / InDigital.TV

But other aspects created a new look: a denim section introduced dresses with hemlines reaching to mid-calf.  Above all, a third of the show was dedicated to tailoring, sombre thigh-length jackets or knee-length leather coats.

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2019

Monica Feudi / InDigital.TV

I can remember coats at Miu Miu from past collections, especially pretty things in macaroon colours. This new season’s solemn outerwear seemed appropriate to a period when women may feel obliged to dress in response to aggressive times.

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